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Regency Fashion Plate

twilatee in dressdiaries

Anime Costume #4



Materials:

Butterick 4131
poly china silk
stiff weight toile

Overview
The skirt of this dress is held out with side hoops like panniers from the the 1700’s. I decided to add extra lift on the sides of my underskirt to fill in the skirts side hem.

Construction

I used Butterick 4131 as the base for my skirt. I added 2 inches in length and width to the side seam so that the skirts hem would hang evenly over the small panniers. The side seam has an inverted knife pleat at the waist for the pannier.

I altered the pattern at the side back and center back to remove the skirts train.

I put 2 layers of ruffled toile along the bottom edge of the underskirt. I added an extra layer of toile at the sides to fill in the skirts under the pannier.






 



Materials:

Butterick 4131
poly poi de soie
china silk lining
1 1/2” synthetic horse hair braid
metallic net
3 styles of net lace
metallic trim
pearl trim
3 brooches
AB heat affix crystals
plastic gems
AB sequins
flat silver sequins

Overview
The skirt of this dress is based on the 1700’s pannier shape. Although it does have a small train. for the most part this skirt is very 1700’s


Construction
I used Butterick 4131 as the base for my skirt. I altered the pattern not only to fit over the panniers but also to add pleats at the waist line.

The center front was trimmed separately. The metallic net was flatlined to the poi de soie center front. I made a paper guide to apply the net lace symmetrically. I used chalk transfer paper and a transfer wheel to mark the design. I stay stitched the design to keep the net from twisting. The net lace was than gathered and applied to the center front. The skirt was than assembled. Along the side front seam flat net lace was applied. Various gems, crystals and sequins were then sewn to the side front lace.

I made a bag lining from china silk. I assembled the lining and joined it to the fashion layer at the hem I added 1 1/2” synthetic horse hair braid to the hem and top stitched it to the china silk lining. I top stitched the lining to the hem seam allowances to keep the lining from creeping up.

The over skirt was than joined to the under skirt using an under placket at center back and a 1” waistband. The skirt closes with 2 hooks and eyes.






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Comments

Did you put the gems/sequins on via tambour, or by hand?
no tambour on this project... the sequins are too far apart for all that, no I just sewed them on with the regular needle and thread. Although I got some lovely long beading needles for this project that where lovely to work with... although apt to bending. LOL! :)

August 2014

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